One of many tourists admiring one of many door-knockers
Along with Prague, Florence is my favorite city. It has so much to offer, but it can be loaded with tourists, which can leave you feeling like just one of the pack, plodding along from one main sight to another. However, with a little planning and a willingness to spend more than just a couple days in Florence, any visitor can discover many wonderful sights beyond the regular to-do list.
I could spend years in Florence because I love the atmosphere and history of the city, and because there are tons of things to do! I’ve been fortunate to travel there 4 times; the second time I studied there for 3 weeks and came back for more, spending another 3 weeks there the following year. I was content just wandering the lively markets and historic streets, window shopping and people watching, then settling in at a café for some cappuccino and conversation before stopping at a trattoria for a light dinner. I loved walking up and down the Arno on sunny days but spent many rainy days taking in the city’s mind-boggling artistic riches. But if you don’t want to just stroll and wander, here is a list of fantastic things to do. This is Florence, so you will see tourists, but not anything like at the main sights of the Uffizi, Accademia, Duomo and Piazza della Signoria.
San Miniato al Monte
1. San Miniato al Monte
Visit on a sunny day and this can be a little adventure! I suggest walking. You will have to cross the Arno to the Oltrarno area (which will give you a nice peek at a more “real” Florence), then walk past the old city walls and up until you reach this hilltop church. There are signs that lead the way. Alternatively, you can take the bus there or back or both.
It is a Romanesque church that dates from 1013, so its architecture and decoration are quite different from the mostly later Renaissance churches in Florence. There are some very impressive mosaics inside and outside, an adjoining monastery, which I hear sells their own honey and liquors, and a very old cemetery. The view of Florence from here is outstanding.
View of Florence while walking San Miniato al Monte
The church sits just above Piazzale Michelangelo, which is packed with tourists and young Italians kissing, but it’s worth a stop for another view of the city, especially around sunset.
2. and 3. Santa Croce + the Pazzi Chapel
The Basilica of Santa Croce is the largest Franciscan church in the world. What makes it an interesting stop is that it is the burial site for many famous Florentines, including Michelangelo, Galileo, Machiavelli, and 2 important early Renaissance artists, Lorenzo Ghiberti and Leon Battista Alberti. Check out some of the tombs!
The Pazzi Chapel, a Renaissance masterpiece
Next to the church is the 15th century Pazzi Chapel, a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture by Filippo Brunelleschi (the genius architect who designed Florence’s famous Dome). The Pazzi Chapel perfectly demonstrates Renaissance features: curved lines, geometric shapes, regular patterns, a nice dome, and overall simplicity. It was made with pietra serena, the gray and white marble, and includes terracotta roundels, which were a common decoration during the time and can be seen in other places in Florence. An interesting point about this chapel is that it was commissioned by the Pazzi family, the main rivals of the ruling Medici family during the Renaissance.
The Boboli Gardens & a view of Florence
This is one of my favorite things to do in Florence! The Boboli Gardens are located across the Arno River and lie behind the huge Palazzo Pitti, which is not only a grand Renaissance palace but also an excellent museum. The gardens date from 1549 and include statues, flowers, interesting grottoes, and more young Italian couples kissing. The gardens are the largest green space in Florence and allow for visitors to enjoy some stunning views of Florence’s historical center.
The huge Bardini Gardens stretch beyond the Boboli Gardens and up to the medieval city walls. They recently underwent a 5-year restoration project. They include many varieties of plants and flowers and offer more great views of the city below. Because they are located behind the Boboli Gardens, they are not as crowded.
- Piazza della Repubblica
When I stayed in Florence, I walked through this grand square at least once a day. It is lined with beautiful cafés and a long portico that extends on either side of the Arch of Triumph. Walk under the portico and you will find the central post office, vendors’ stalls, and a large bookstore. The square is a lively gathering place complete with street performers and children riding the carousel.
My favorite thing about the square is the cafés: Caffé Gilli, Caffé Paskowski and Caffé delle Giubbe Rosse. These cafés, especially Giubbe Rosse, were the meeting places of artists and writers in the early 20th century. Set aside time to stop in each of them, view the beautiful interiors, and treat yourself to a delicious pastry or a thick, rich hot chocolate. Check out the websites for a teaser: Gilli and Giubbe Rosse
What are your favorite not-quite-as-touristy things to do in Florence? Leave a comment and share!
Coming soon: “Off-the-beaten-map” things to do in Florence
Those are the sorts of less-touristy places I seek when in tourist-Mecca places such as Florence. Florence/Sienna are high on my list of places to visit in the future, having only been to Rome in Italy so far. So many places to go, so little time/money to do so!
If I have the time, I seek out less touristy places, too. And if I don’t have much time, I have sometimes skipped major sites in favor of just walking around a city and trying to get a feel for it that way. Florence is tricky because the historical center is small and there are SO many tourists there, so you will be among tourists almost anywhere. 3 of the 4 times I was there were in the winter, and at some places, we were the only tourists! A great time to visit. I have some pics and memories of Siena that I will post in the future.
oooh… you keep tempting me with good material. There was a blog tagging thing going around a while ago in which you were to reveal your top 3 or 5 travel secrets, and I revealed three secrets about Florence. I found it difficult to dig up really un-touristy things. I ended up listing the convent of San Salvi (NOBODY goes there), the bartolini-salimeni chapel in santa trinita, and tabernacles (in general). Is that art geek enough? Here’s that article: http://www.arttrav.com/florence/3-best-art-travel-secrets-florence-italy/
Alexandra,
Thanks for the comment! Yes, it is hard to dig up really untouristy things in Florence; that’s why I called these “not-quite-as-touristy,” especially because these still are touristy. I’m planning to cover a few less touristy ones in my next Florence post, like the Palazzo Medici-Ricardi and the museum that’s part of an old house (don’t remember the name). I actually came acorss your blog tagging article a month or so back and enjoyed reading it. I love Santa Trinita but haven’t been to San Salvi. And there’s nothing geeky about that to me!
Where do you teach? And where did you go to school? What a wonderful profession you have! I have a BA in art history and deferred my acceptance for an MA/PhD program in art history so that I could spend some time in Europe, and I ended up never doing the grad program in art history. I started teaching English abroad and studied linguistics after that. I still want to study art history again someday… It’s SO interesting.
Great piece! Thanks for sharing San Miniato al Monte — such an interesting church, and SUCH old frescoes! And you’ll never see too many tourists there.
Kate, I’m glad you liked it! San Miniato is interesting, and the location can’t be beat!
Hey, it’s definitely a very nice series of tips! it looks like you really enjoyed Florence!
If you want to Keep in touch with what happens in Florence come and visit me on Twitter @Hotel_Casci
Bye
Hey – i took that picture of you