Usually when planning a visit to San Francisco, we imagine a weekend of big city pleasures: views, food, museums, shopping, and, because this is San Francisco, a walk at Lands End or the Botanical Garden. But recently my idea of a weekend away in San Francisco changed when we had the chance to spend a night in the Presidio National Park. It was so relaxing yet so unexpected, one of my favorite recent travel experiences! And I think you’d love it, too.
What is the Presidio?
The Presidio is a small national park located in the northern tip of the city of San Francisco, next to the Golden Gate Bridge and San Francisco Bay. It’s just two square miles but includes 300 acres of historic planted forest, 11 miles of hiking trails, and several endangered plant species. If you’re into geology at all, you must visit Baker Beach to see the serpentinite that resulted from the movement of tectonic plates here.
The park also has more than 450 historic buildings and is designated a National Historic Landmark District. When you visit the Presidio, you’ll notice the rows of historic buildings right away. Once the home of the native Ohlone people, the Presidio was turned into a military fort by the Spanish in 1776 and then came under control of Mexico in 1821 before becoming a U.S. Army post from 1846 to 1994.
Nowadays, the park offers hiking, camping, beautiful accommodations, restaurants, historical exhibits, art, and community events, making it a place for the San Francisco community and visitors to spend a few hours or a weekend.
In my experience, the best way to experience the Presidio is to stay one or two nights in the park. With hiking trails, restaurants, and activities just steps away, we felt we could truly relax and immerse ourselves in all that the park has to offer.
Where to stay in the Presidio
We stayed at the Inn at the Presidio, and I can’t recommend it enough. This historic inn is located in Pershing Hall, the former home for bachelor officers when the Presidio was an army post. The 1903 Georgian-Revival style building has been restored as a spacious inn featuring twenty-two rooms, seventeen of which are suites with fireplaces.
We visited with our two kids and stayed in a suite of two connected rooms, one with a queen bed and bathroom, and the other with a sleeper sofa, fireplace, and spacious windows with a view of the Presidio and the Golden Gate Bridge. (See a tour of our room in my Instagram Story.)
On the main floor is the cozy reception area anchored by a large fireplace and the former Mess Hall, where a delicious continental breakfast and afternoon cheese and wine service (yum!) are served. Outside is a huge fire pit where we relaxed in the evening after hiking.
Just behind the inn are hiking trails that lead to Andy Goldsworthy’s land art as well as other points of interest in the Presidio. From our room we could see the eucalyptus trees and hear the birds that live in the forest of the Presidio. It was this atmosphere of being in nature that made our stay in the Presidio truly special.
The Inn at the Presidio and sustainability:
I didn’t expect a historic building to be such a good example of sustainability, but the inn is dedicated to being a green hotel. It began with the rehabilitation of historic Pershing Hall and continues with the inn’s day-to day operations.
The inn is a LEED Gold building, an environmental designation from the U.S. Green Building Council that recognizes buildings that use green architecture features to minimize water and energy usage, enhance air quality, and leave a smaller impact on resources. The Inn at the Presidio has accomplished this with energy efficient lighting, using shredded blue jeans as insulation (how cool is that?!), and reusing existing features like original hardwood floors and light fixtures. The inn also uses green cleaning products, a rigorous waste management program to divert as much waste as possible from landfills, and items that are made locally.
What to do in Presidio National Park
Stop by the Presidio Visitor Center
The Presidio Visitor Center is open 10 am– 5 pm daily and is centrally located right next to the Main Parade Ground. Stop here for a very useful overview of the Presidio, suggestions for hiking trails or other activities, and last-minute picnicking gear (blankets, reusable bamboo picnic utensils, etc.).
Sculptures by Andy Goldsworthy
One of my favorite things to do with kids in San Francisco is to walk on Wood Line, an outdoor art installation by British artist Andy Goldsworthy, located in a eucalyptus grove in the Presidio. This 1200-foot sculpture made of eucalyptus trunks fills the space left behind when the cypress trees planted by the Army in the late 1800s died out.
It’s easy to get here — if you’re in the Presidio, follow the hiking trails or streets until you get to Lovers Lane, and look for the eucalyptus grove that runs parallel. You’ll see the snaking shape of the logs inside the trees. Leave about 30 minutes to explore.
Wood Line is not Goldsworthy’s only work in the Presidio. In fact, the park holds the largest collection of his work in North America — there’s also Spire, Earth Wall and Tree Fall (the latter can be visited only with a tour).
You can visit all three art works by following a three-mile hiking trail that takes you past a school where we watched local kids playing lacrosse and chatted with locals out with their dogs on an evening walk. See the last page of this brochure for the trail, and check out this video about his work in the Presidio.
Hiking trails on the coast
One of the best things to do in the Presidio is hike one of the twelve hiking trails. With majestic views of the Pacific Ocean and Golden Gate Bridge, the Batteries to Bluffs trail is one of the best choices int he park. It’s a short trail (.7 miles each way) but can be extended by hooking up with the California Coastal Trail and walking to Baker Beach (below). Note that dogs are not permitted.
Kids’ activities
There’s lots for kids to do in the Presidio. Besides special seasonal events (like the kite festival in early August), there’s the House of Air trampoline park, Planet Granite climbing facility, Walt Disney Family Museum, Presidio Bowling Center, and Crissy Field. We didn’t have time to visit these places last time but are looking forward to taking our kids back to experience all the fun family activities in the Presidio.
Community events
The Presidio blends history and nature with community in a way I’ve rarely seen. From special guided hikes and art exhibits to kids’ activities and festivals, there are many ways for the community to enjoy the park. Check out the events calendar for workshops, Here are a few seasonal events:
Presidio Twilight, community campfire evenings in summer
On Thursday evenings from 5:00 to 9:00 pm, the Main Parade Ground at the Presidio turns into a community space for people to enjoy some chill time outdoors. Presidio Twilight features at least eight local mobile food vendors, lawn games, communal fire pits, live music and a full bar serving cocktails, wine, beer, and warm beverages. There are also lantern-lit lawn domes, something I’ve never seen before but think would be so fun to try!
Sustainability bonus: this strives to be a zero-waste event. All containers provided by food vendors are compostable and no plastic straws or water bottles are sold.
Presidio Picnic on Sundays
Like the Thursday evening community campfires, the Main Parade Ground is transformed into a huge community space for Presidio Picnic every Sunday 11:00 to 4:00 p.m. from April through October. The picnic features a rotating lineup of 30+ international mobile food vendors, a free yoga class at 11:00, free bike lessons for kids every first Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. (bicycles and helmets are provided), and free cultural dance performances every third Sunday from 12 to 2 p.m.​​​​
Where to eat in the Presidio
Sessions: very good food and beer selection at this contemporary restaurant in the Presidio. Note that it’s not exactly kid-friendly — the atmosphere is casual enough, but the menu is small and doesn’t have many dishes that typical kids would go for.
Arguello: With the direction of award-winning chef Traci Des Jardins, Arguello “features Mexican cuisine capturing the cultural heritage of the Presidio and a contemporary bar with craft cocktails.” I didn’t try this place but several people recommended it to us.
The Warming Hut: a small cafe and store near the Golden Gate Bridge, this is a good place to stop for a coffee or hot chocolate while walking near the bay.
The Commissary: the nicest restaurant in the area, and it offers a happy hour on weekdays 5:00-6:30. Note that this is not a kid-friendly restaurant.
And you? Have you been to the Presidio? I’d love to hear your experience or questions. Learn more about the park here and here.
Disclosure: We received a complimentary one-night stay at the Inn at the Presidio, but all opinions are my own.
Photo credits: All photos are mine except photos 1, 3, and 12 courtesy of the Presidio and Inn at the Presidio. Photo of the visitors center is by Maza34 on Flickr.
