If your New Years’ resolutions include, perchance, traveling more and being more active, we may have just the holiday for you. Hawaii’s Big Island, just a short 5-hour direct flight from San Francisco, is, as the name implies, very big, offering tons of active holiday options. ArtTrav’s Alexandra Korey spent two weeks scoping out some of the best of them and shares what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii.
With eight of the world’s thirteen microclimates present on the Big Island, this volcanic paradise offers an impressive range of landscapes and activities. For our second vacation on the Big Island, my husband and I chose to stay for two full weeks in two different Airbnb accommodations outside of the resort areas so that we’d have contact with – and advice from – locals.
We started with 3 nights in an off-grid rainforest hut called Eco Hale, and then moved to the residential area of Pu’u Lani Ranch to OP Hale. Both apartments were clean and well equipped, and we enjoyed the contact with our hosts.
Having already done some major exploring on an earlier trip, this time our main goal was to play tennis every day, after which we did a fair amount of Big Island hiking and beach-going.
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What to Know Before You Go to the Big Island
With all the different climates here, each hike is unique, so you don’t need much more than your feet, a hat and a big bottle of water to take in the beauty of this place!
You’ll need a rental car while visiting the island. Pack half of what you think you’ll need, but go heavy on active wear, and bring a number of layers including a fleece and a windbreaker.
If you’re staying in an apartment rental, check what the owners have provided – we were lucky to find snorkel equipment, coolers, boogie boards, beach towels, fleece jackets, and big bottles of toiletries in both places, meaning we could have brought a lot less with us!
What to Do on the Big Island of Hawaii:
Walk on a crater
Big Island hiking! Perhaps top of the list of what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii because what’s a holiday on a volcano without getting close to it?
Volcano National Park is located on the east side of the island, about a 1.5 to 2 hour drive from Kona. The 10 dollar parking fee is good for a week, so if you have the opportunity, you might return to do more than one walk or activity here.
The daily ranger-led walk lasts 45 minutes and is interesting and different every time. The drive down Crater Road to see where lava meets ocean is also popular and easy.
For a bit more of a challenge we opted for the three-mile Kilauea Iki trail that rings the crater left behind by a 1959 eruption. You descend 400 feet through lush rainforest, ringing the crater to enter on the far side, and walk across the crater, then hike back up for the last 15-20 minutes. It’s about a 3-hour hike if you take it easy.
It tends to rain a bit here – being rainforest and all – so we were well equipped with waterproof hiking shoes, a thin rain jacket, water, snacks, hats, sunscreen and a few layers. This was a highlight of our trip for the diversity of wildlife encountered, the sounds of the birds, and the nascent lichens and trees on the crater floor.
Play tennis with Roberta Russo
As mentioned, our goal was to improve our tennis games by playing daily with an instructor. While the major resorts offer group tennis clinics for 25-30$ per person each day, when they’re fully booked, they don’t accept outside guests.
Through word of mouth we were lucky to find a new private tennis school that just opened in the Pu’u Lani Ranch residential area between Kona and Waimea, where the temperature is almost always a pleasant 71 degrees (rather cooler than at the beachside courts).
Run by Italian tennis instructor Roberta Russo, lessons are held on the only clay court in all of the Hawaiian islands! Roberta, originally from Naples, started teaching at the young age of 15 in order to fund her own competitive play. Particularly dedicated to helping others through tennis, she has worked in juvenile detention centres, US Army bases, and is head of the Italian Association for Wheelchair Tennis.
She developed a personalized path to improvement for us and we highly recommend her for both adults and children, either casual players or future stars. To get in touch, email rbrtrusso@gmail.com at Roberta’s Clay Tennis Hideaway.
Go find a Humuhumu Nukunuku Apua’a
The very long word is the name of the Hawaii state fish, more easily called a Reef Triggerfish. This yellow, white and black striped darling’s name refers to its “snout like a pig” and it’s worth trying to find while snorkeling just so that you can emerge and triumphantly exclaim “I saw a Humuhumu Nukunuku Apua’a!”
Other than this guy, you can easily find all the common reef fish an easy snorkel’s distance from the coast in a few places on the island.
Two of the easiest places to enter the water are at Puako Bay at the very end of the road, and at Kahaluu (basically a city beach). Harder to reach is Kealakekua Bay and the Captain Cook Monument, apparently amazing both for snorkeling and dolphin spotting, but requiring a long hike or a day-trip in a kayak to get there.
Hike down Pololu Valley: Big Island Hiking
One of the most beautiful places on the list of what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii!
The opening scene of Jurassic Park 2 takes place at the bottom of the Pololu Valley, located at the island’s northernmost tip. This rocky beach with a dangerous surf can be reached by a 15 minute walk down a steep path that was easier than described. In fact, we were surprised to find quite a few other visitors and locals here, some wearing flip-flops!
The view from the top, middle and bottom are all worth seeing (and photographing). Personally, I marveled at the very green-ness of it all, and the contrast of the blue of the sea and the white surf, which really did seem like something from another time.
Our hosts told us that on this beach, the boundary between this and the “other world” is said to be thin, so people set up ahu, pyramidal piles of rocks that are altars to lost loved ones.
Watch the sun set from Mauna Kea
Highly recommended for what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii by our hosts was driving up to Mauna Kea to watch the sun set. Mauna Kea is the highest volcanic peak in the state of Hawaii – its summit is at 14,000 feet (4200 meters).
It is host to an important Astronomy Observatory with some of the world’s most powerful telescopes that take advantage of the height and lack of light pollution.
The volcano is also considered sacred to the Hawaiian people, creating conflict between those preserving culture and scientists researching the universe.
At the visitor center located at 9000 feet, we enjoyed an informative video about this and the history of astronomy on Mauna Kea. But before this, we walked up a very windy path to watch the sun drop below the clouds that we’d passed through.
It’s always cold and windy here, though it was particularly so when we visited in December, and the summit road that goes from the visitor center to the top was closed due to 90 miles per hour winds and sub-zero temperatures.
In warmer weather, it is possible to drive up with a 4×4, or if you’re really extreme, do the 10 hour loop hike (leaving before 8:30am) to the summit.
Read more: Hawaii Travel Tips
Walk up a Pu’u
Typical of the volcanic landscape are series of small softly shaped mounds called pu’u. At Pu’u Wa’awa’a Ahupua’a forest reserve you can walk a pleasant – if a bit long – trail that will take you at a constant incline alongside and up the aforementioned pu’u that looks like a jello mold upside-down.
The 8.1 mile Cinder Cone trail has a 1900 foot elevation, so you’ll want to pack 1.5 litres of water per person, and start early in the morning since there is not much shade.
The dryland forest landscape changes with the elevation, and about halfway – which might also be a good turning around point – there’s a fantastic view towards the coast, as well as various skittish sheep along the way and cows higher up, since this land is still used as a ranch.
Finding Francolin
Franklin is not a man, but a bird! These large brown birds – the Erckel’s Francolin – hang out with the wild turkeys and other local “pests” in the ranch area of the island in which we stayed.
I highly recommend seeking out some of these funny partridges because their call is like a crazed laugh! Hearing these all day, I constantly giggle and am convinced I would never tire of them. I wish I could bring one to work with me.
Read more: 30 Amazing Things to Do on Kauai
Buy food in Hilo
One final idea for what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii, especially if you’re planning to visit the east side of the island (Hilo and surroundings), is this tip. The supermarkets in Hilo are well stocked and cheaper than those in the more touristy Kona.
We had a blast at KTA, which had a huge produce section with a lot of Asian items, delicious fish, and two big rows of Asian products of all types.
The Island Naturals in Hilo is also excellent, this more for prepared foods. They have a Japanese sushi chef on site who prepares great take-out rolls, soba noodles and more. There are tables that give on to the parking lot where you can people-watch in this very local locale.
Have you been to Hawaii? What are your suggestions for what to do on the Big Island of Hawaii?
For more travel tips and inspiration, check out Alexandra’s Instagram feed.
I’ve been to Hawaii twice, but haven’t made it yet to the big island — would love to see it one day!!
I’ve been to Hawaii twice, too, but once when I was 12 and the second time was several years ago, to the Big Island. It’s a beautiful, interesting island. I’d love to go back but also to explore the other islands, too!
I was lucky enough to go to Hawaii twice last year, one of those trips included the Big Island. There is so much to do there and these are really great suggestions!
How nice that you got to go to Hawaii twice in one year! I remember following along on one of those trips. I love Hawaii and can’t wait to return–Alexandra’s tips gave me a lot of ideas!
Wow, Andi you are so lucky! I think if I lived on the West coast, Hawaii would be a frequent destination for me, too. It looks like there can be some really good flight and car deals in the off season.
From my base in Italy on the other hand, it’s a ridiculously long flight. We went 8 years ago and now this time. Maybe another time next decade…
Volcanoes National Park really is the highlight of the island! One visit, we took a bike tour – that was great fun, and gave us a bit of exercise too :-). Did you walk through the Thurston Lava Tube? It feels like you’re inside the belly of some prehistoric monster…
How interesting! And I agree that Volcanoes National Park is the highlight. When we were there, we hiked through the rainforest before visiting the craters…bizarre contrast!
Hi! Yes we did go through the lava tube…. along with a few bus loads of asian tourists 🙁 I can imagine it’s more fun when it’s not crowded. We happened to be there over the xmas holidays when the island is really full up.
The volcano park is really great, a good price too at 10$ for the whole week! Last time we went to Big Island we did it as a day trip from Kona which was just not enough, so this time we stayed 3 nights closer by.
Alexandra You have discovered the perfect way to enjoy Hawaii Island; in small ‘time well spent’ bites. Indeed, we live on a Very Big Volcano Island with a passion for the Road-Less-Traveled, also know as the East Side/Hilo Side. Living as the sun rises between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. So for your next trip, here are a few ideas that will take you deeper into the heart of Hawaii.
-Ainapo Trail, 20+ miles & 10,000 feet to the top of Mauna Loa. You get honors for making this one.
-Kahaualea Rain Forest, 8.25m r/t 6-8hr. Get beyond the beyond and see Pu’u O’o blowing her stack. This is where the current lava is coming from.
-Hilina Pali, 2,000-foot sea cliff, access via Hawaii Volcano National Park. To access this beautiful coastal cove, Ka’aha Shelter, add 7.75m r/t and this is an overnight solitude sensation for the wilder spirits.
-Waiopae Tide Pools, Kapoho Vacationland area in Lower Puna. Coral rich tubs for Adventure snorkelers; some say the best on the island.
-Pohoiki Warm Spring & Ahalanui Warm Pond, Lower Puna. Luxuriate in a warm pool beside the blue Pacific under Coco Palms?
-Hilo Beaches, easier to say, yes? A 5 mile strip of coast boasting a half-dozen beach parks with protected seapools (honu/turtles), sand patches, gardenscapes and sections of wild reef. Much overlooked by visitors and adored by locals. Junction of Hwy 11 and Hwy 13, head east on Hwy 37 and pick a spot on the oceanside left for the next 4 miles.
From the Mountains to the Ocean there is a couple of lifetime of good time. A hui hou/until we meet again Aloha
Thanks for all the ideas, Kaeo! I will be planning a trip to Hawaii’s Big Island soon (?) and will use these suggestions.
Hi Kaeo! It was a real pleasure to stay at your Eco Hut. Thanks for all the suggestions, I am sure readers will enjoy the additional off the beaten track items.
I can’t see myself ready to hike up Mauna Loa any time soon… the hike on the Pu’u mentioned above was already a bit too much for me! And Mauna Loa also has the altitude too! Hilina Pali on the other hand sounds so beautiful.
Aloha, Alexandra
Thanks for this great post! Maui has always been my favorite island, but you’ve gotten me very intrigued with the Big Island. I think we’ll have to make an island hop to check it out on our next excursion out there!
Thanks again!
Aloha!
On my bucket list of places to visit! Great article! You have gotten me ten times more excited to travel.
Doesn’t it look like so much fun?
What a fantastic guest post Alex! I have never been to Hawaii (hangs head in shame) and always wanted to visit, that sunset looks so dreamy, I don’t think I would even mind the hike. I also love the idea of staying at an eco-hut, what a great idea!
Snorkeling with the wild dolphins beside Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park, Hawaii Island. And the hot springs ponds near Puna were my favourite memories.